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DAY 1: SYDNEY
Your trip begins in Sydney, where you check in to your hotel and meet your driver-guide and the rest of the group, never more than 16 of you, at an evening welcome meeting. Then it's dinner together, the one group dinner included on the trip, and a first chance to swap stories with the people you'll share the coast with for the next two weeks. If you arrive early, give yourself time on the harbour: the Sydney Harbour Bridge opened in 1932, and its steel arch still carries trains, cars and walkers 134 metres above the water.
Overnight: Sydney
DAY 2: SYDNEY TO THE HUNTER VALLEY AND NEWCASTLE
Head north out of the city for about 280 km. The first stop is a conservation wildlife park, where you get close to kangaroos, wombats, emus and koalas. Then it's into the Hunter Valley, where vines were first planted in the 1820s, making it the oldest wine region in Australia still producing. Here you sit down to wine, cheese and chocolate tastings, and you can send a favourite bottle home. The day ends with a guided look around Newcastle, founded in 1804 as a convict settlement and now one of the biggest coal ports in the world, with surf beaches a short walk from its centre.
Overnight: Newcastle
DAY 3: NEWCASTLE TO PORT MACQUARIE
About 250 km up the coast brings you to Port Macquarie, settled in 1821 as a place of secondary punishment for convicts who reoffended in Sydney. Today it's known for the Koala Hospital, set up in 1973 and the first hospital in the world just for koalas. You visit to see the patients and hear how the volunteers rescue, treat and release koalas hurt by cars, dogs, disease and bushfire. Later, a walk along the foreshore follows the mouth of the Hastings River, where dolphins often feed in the channel. Dinner tonight is your own, with plenty of places along the water.
Overnight: Port Macquarie
DAY 4: GUMBAYNGGIRR COUNTRY TO BYRON BAY
Today is the longest drive of the first week, about 400 km, and it starts on Gumbaynggirr Country. The Gumbaynggirr people's lands run along the Mid North Coast around Coffs Harbour, and their language is one of the strongest being revived in New South Wales. A Gumbaynggirr cultural experience gives you their stories of this coast first hand. Further north you reach Byron Bay and climb to the Cape Byron Lighthouse, lit in 1901 on the most easterly point of mainland Australia. From the lookout below it, keep watch for dolphins in the swell and, between May and November, humpback whales passing close to the headland.
Overnight: Byron Bay
DAY 5: A FREE DAY IN BYRON BAY
This day is yours. Byron Bay takes its name from the cape, which James Cook named in 1770 after the navigator John Byron, grandfather of the poet. Spend the morning on the sand at Main Beach, browse the shops and cafés in town, or simply sleep in. Want more of a challenge? For an extra cost you can book a surf lesson, a sea-kayak trip on the bay, a whale-watching cruise in season, a hot air balloon flight or a brewery tour. No meals are included today, which gives you the run of the town's cafés and restaurants.
Overnight: Byron Bay
DAY 6: BYRON BAY TO NOOSA AND RAINBOW BEACH
Cross into Queensland and head up the Sunshine Coast to Noosa. In Noosa National Park, a track follows the headland above the surf, through coastal forest where wild koalas sleep in the eucalypts. Your guide then shows you around Hastings Street and Main Beach, a north-facing beach that is one of the few on the east coast sheltered from the southerly swell. In the afternoon you continue north to Rainbow Beach, named after the bands of red, orange and yellow sand in the cliffs behind it, coloured by iron and other minerals. Your apartment here is home for two nights.
Overnight: Rainbow Beach
DAY 7: K'GARI (FRASER ISLAND)
A full day on K'gari (Fraser Island) with a 4WD guide. At 123 km long it is the largest sand island on earth, World Heritage-listed since 1992. The 4WD runs along 75 Mile Beach, which doubles as the island's highway and landing strip. You walk through rainforest that grows straight out of the sand, then swim in Lake McKenzie, a perched lake of pure rainwater sitting on white silica, so clear you can see the bottom metres out. At the Maheno, a First World War hospital ship, you'll see the rusting hull a cyclone drove ashore in 1935. Lunch is included.
Overnight: Rainbow Beach
DAY 8: RAINBOW BEACH TO BRISBANE
Back to the city today, about 240 km south to Brisbane, Queensland's capital. Your guide takes you on a short tour to get your bearings, then the afternoon is free. The Brisbane River winds right through the middle of town, so one of the easiest ways to see the city is from a river ferry, passing under the Story Bridge, the steel cantilever bridge that opened in 1940 and is still the city's best known landmark. Riverside walks, galleries and dinner are all close by, and tonight you rest up before tomorrow's flight north.
Overnight: Brisbane
DAY 9: FLY TO THE WHITSUNDAYS
After breakfast you fly from Brisbane to Proserpine, the airport for the Whitsundays, which saves two days of driving. From there it's about 40 km by road to Airlie Beach, the town on the mainland where most island trips begin. The rest of the day is free. The waters off Airlie are part of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, and the stinger season means most people swim in the lagoon on the foreshore rather than the sea between November and May. Watch the boats come in to the marinas, find a table for dinner and get ready for the islands. You stay here two nights.
Overnight: Airlie Beach
DAY 10: WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS AND WHITEHAVEN BEACH
Today is a full day out on the water with Red Cat Adventures, on a fast boat through the Whitsunday Islands, 74 islands named by James Cook, who sailed the passage in 1770. The highlight is Whitehaven Beach, 7 km of sand that is about 98 per cent pure silica, so fine and white it stays cool underfoot. A guided walk climbs to the Hill Inlet lookout, where the tide swirls white sand and blue water into shifting patterns. Then it's on with a mask and snorkel over coral, looking for turtles and reef fish, and back on board for lunch while the islands slide past.
Overnight: Airlie Beach
DAY 11: AIRLIE BEACH TO MISSION BEACH
A long, easy day on the road, about 500 km north on the Bruce Highway through sugarcane country, where small cane trains cross the road during the crushing season. By afternoon you reach Mission Beach, a string of villages on 14 km of beach backed by rainforest. This is cassowary country: the southern cassowary stands up to 1.8 metres tall, and the Mission Beach area holds one of the largest wild populations left. Drive slowly and keep your eyes on the forest edge. The rest of the afternoon is for the beach and a quiet evening at the resort.
Overnight: Mission Beach
DAY 12: ATHERTON TABLELANDS TO CAIRNS
Today you climb onto the Atherton Tablelands, a cool volcanic plateau of rainforest and dairy farms. There's a swim at a waterfall plunge pool and another at Lake Eacham, a crater lake formed by a volcanic blast, with no creek flowing in or out. Nearby, the Curtain Fig Tree is a strangler fig whose aerial roots drop about 15 metres to the ground in a single hanging wall. Keep watching the quiet creeks too, as this is one of the best places in Australia to see a wild platypus. In the afternoon you come down the range to Cairns for two nights.
Overnight: Cairns
DAY 13: THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
A full day on the Great Barrier Reef, which runs for 2,300 km along the Queensland coast and was World Heritage-listed in 1981. You head out from Cairns with Ocean Freedom. On the reef you join a drift snorkel tour, letting the current carry you over the coral with a guide, and you go out on the glass-bottom boat to see the reef without getting wet. Snorkelling gear and lunch are included. Prefer to go deeper? For an extra cost you can try a scuba dive. Back in Cairns, the evening is your own.
Overnight: Cairns
DAY 14: CAIRNS
A last breakfast together, then it's time for goodbyes. Cairns was founded in 1876 as a port for the goldfields inland, and today it is the gateway to both the reef and the Daintree rainforest. The tour ends here, with drop-offs in the city. If you're staying on, the Esplanade and its free swimming lagoon are a short walk from the centre.
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